So I now have
another love in my life... Tallinn, Estonia. Had a stellar time in
this cool little city! We arrived a bit worse for wear on Sunday
planning to spend just two nights there before moving on – we ended
up staying four.
Our first night was
very low key, after going out for a late lunch/early dinner we
chilled back at the hostel – The Purple Goblin which comes very
highly recommended – for the rest of the night.
Up
early on our first morning and off to do the walking tour – the
guide was fantastic, very humourous and full of energy with only the
interesting facts talked about minus all the numbers that “only
tour guides know and care about”. As Estonia is so small it's not uncommon to see celebrities or political ministers etc - she informed us that the Minister of Education just walked past us at one point and later on the next day we bumped into the Swedish Foreign Minister also.
Pretty much every
city in Europe has an old town and they all spend a lot of time,
effort and money in keeping them looking beautiful for the tourists –
it works and they are all very charming, Tallinn not excluded. So we
were kept very busy for our four days there and this was without even
hitting the nightlife which is what Tallinn is quite well known for.
We
headed to Hotel Viru whose 23rd
floor was used as KGB head quarters in Tallinn in the Soviet time to
spy on hotel guests and staff. We learned about what life was like in
the hotel during those times (only the best of everything), how
microphones were placed pretty much everywhere so that private
conversations could be listened in on (for what reason, we're still
not sure, paranoia perhaps) and the lies and corruption that went on
even though everyone knew about it (e.g. everyone knew that Hotel
Viru was 23 floors but it was only ever referred to as having 22
floors – turning a blind eye type thing really). We had a quick
peek inside a couple of churches and then got pointed in the
direction of a restaurant for dinner – which was scrumptious as
always.
Day
two saw us head out in search of the Russian Markets which you could
buy absolutely anything at, including memorabilia from the 1980
Olympics held in Moscow that were boycotted hence memrobilia still
for sale now... While getting caught in the rain we inadvertently
walked a large part of the Culture Kilometer while searching for the
prison. The Culture Kilometer is actually 2.2km long and pretty much
just follows the coastline and a bunch of dilapidated buildings.
Finally we found Patarei Prison, now abandoned, but used right up
until 2005 – hanging rooms and shooting rooms included.
Lunch
was needed by this time and we'd been locally advised to mission it
to a place called F-Hoone's located in the heart of the industrial
zone in an old factory. No comment required here for you to know that
it was amazing – spicy coconut soup with salmon and a meat platter
for me, also cheap as chips. Back to the Russian Markets to purchase
ingredients for dinner – first time cooking in 8 weeks! That
afternoon we signed up to biking tour and explored outside of the Old
City – presidential palace, gardens, song festival grounds, various
monuments and other parks, beaches, and back to town along the scenic
coastline.
We are
still looking like we are never going to be finished being busy in
Tallinn so we sign up for another night and plan the next day's
schedule. It was all centered around our 2pm appointment to head to
the shooting range... first up a 60m climb up stairs to the viewing
platform of St Olive's church for panoramic views of the city. Our
sick sides came out as we reveled in the Torture Museum and all the
devices they had on display there. Lunch was Elk Soup and Mushroom
Pies at a medieval themed restaurant on the Old Town Square – the
staff are all dressed up in traditional garb and get right into
character, this includes getting people to sing for their spoons, too
scared to ask and put everyone to shame with my fantastic singing
voice I decided we could forgo spoons for today. The Elk Soup is out
of this world delish, and due to no spoon I have had a burnt tongue
since then, too eager.
2pm
was approaching and we were needed at the shooting range as a
selection of guns ready to be shot were awaiting us. After a brief
introduction of what not to do with a gun (it's common sense really
isn't it?) we were straight into it. We had about seventy shots from
a Rugar Pistol, two Glock 17s, a Desert Eagle .50, a Mosin-Nagant, an
AK-47, and rounded things off with a Shotgun. Copious amounts of fun
was had even though I was not the victor and managed only to stun my
target with the Desert Eagle. Better luck next time. To wind things
up for the day we escaped the rain by grabbing a cinnamon beer and
heading to a place called Kiek in de Kok – which means Peek in the
Kitchen but is funny to say anyway – for a tour of the tunnels that
snake their way under the present day city. We thought we probably
deserved a night out on the town and did so before begrudgingly
leaving to head to Riga in Latvia.
KGB Headquarters - Hotel Viru
Beds for sixteen inside Paratei prison - but usually these rooms housed about thirty people at a time while they awaited their trial.
The Hanging Room
Song Festival Grounds
Old Town Tallinn as seen from St Olive's Church
Me and an AK-47 - I'm pretty much a professional. Old mate beside me just casually has a loaded gun in his cargo pants pocket too.
Everything traditional! Cinnamon beer in old school mugs.
Tunnels under the city.
Part of the Old Town Square
You can buy your passport at the Russian Markets.
Elk Soup minus the spoon
Everything traditional, again!
Tom won.
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